Axminster C0 Manual de usuario descargar pdf

BRM June 2007Visit the BRM website at: WWW.BRMODELLING.CO.UK

PRODUCT REVIEW

For about 50 years numerous small

lathes have been manufactured

and marketed as suitable for the

small scale model maker, probably

the best known being the Austrian

made ‘Unimat’. Some years ago

several Far Eastern manufacturers

entered the machine tool business

supplying a range of lathes and

milling machines mainly aimed at

the model engineer. One of these,

‘SIEG’ a Chinese concern has now

turned towards us, the small scale

modeller and produced a very solid

miniature lathe suitable for ‘table

top’ use. In the UK it is called the ‘C0

Baby Lathe’, my example being

imported by Arc Euro Trade of

Syston, Leicester.

The lathe is supplied complete

with 50mm three-jaw self-centring

chuck, dead centre to ﬁ t tail stock,

and a ‘tool kit’. Beware - the latter is

just that: a set of spanners,

screwdriver and Allan keys. Cutting

tools are not supplied, you must

provide your own. The supplier

recommends 8mm square tools,

but already having numerous 6mm

tipped tools I used these instead,

the smaller size is no deterrent,

they just need a little more packing

to bring them up to exact centre

height.

Dismantling and cleaning

The machine comes factory-

assembled and well coated in

protective grease, all of which

(including the accumulated dirt

and residue casting sand from the

manufacturing process) needs to

be removed. Even so, and using

only the tools supplied, I had the

lathe reduced to its basic

components in about ten minutes

and within a further two hours re-

assembled and up and running. In

addition to the supplied tool kit

you will also need a paint brush (1”

or thereabouts) paper towels or

kitchen roll, packet of K&S ‘shim

brass’, ﬁ ne oil stone and methylated

spirits. Paraﬃ n is often

recommended but in a domestic

environment methylated spirit is

far more user friendly. To save

repetition, ‘strip and clean’ means

remove part from lathe and where

necessary strip to basic

components, degrease, then

wash/wipe away all dirt, etc, with

methylated spirit. In all cases follow

up by lightly oiling all sliding

surfaces and then place to one side

to wait reassembly. All item

numbers listed are those shown on

pages 8 and 9 of the instruction

manual supplied with the lathe,

but beware that several of the part

names have lost a little in the

‘translation’.

To strip and clean my own lathe I

ﬁ rst removed the tailstock,

slackening oﬀ the socket screw

(81) allows the entire assembly to

be slid oﬀ the bed. To take oﬀ the

saddle/cross slide assembly it is

necessary to remove the lead screw

and nut (21 and 102) but ﬁ rst take

oﬀ the lead screw handwheel (23).

To do this hold the wheel in one

hand and with the other hand and

using an 8mm spanner remove the

domed locknut (24), the wheel can

now be drawn oﬀ . The lead screw

nut (102) is secured to the saddle

by two hexagonal-head set screws

(3). Removing these frees the

saddle and allows it to be slid oﬀ

the lathe bed. With the saddle

removed continue to strip down

the lead screw (21) and its brackets

(2 and 22). These should require no

more than a good wash down with

meths. The saddle and cross slide

assembly is now stripped to its

basic components. First take oﬀ

the tool post (79), ‘Knife rest’ in the

parts list, and put it to one side. No

work should be required on this.

Remove the cross slide hand-wheel

(23) using the same technique as

described above. This permits the

cross slide to be drawn oﬀ the

saddle casting. From the underside

of the saddle casting either remove

or slacken oﬀ the press plate (96).

Reassembly

ith all parts throughly cleaned

reassembly can proceed, but ﬁ rst

check the inside edges of both the

front and rear bedway (1) for burrs.

These are easily detected with your

ﬁ nger tip. Should any be found

carefully rub them away with a ﬁ ne

oil stone, drawing the stone the full

length of the bed. Then clean down

the bed casting - it’s important all

traces of the oil stone are removed.

Reﬁ x or fully tighten the press plate

(96) to the saddle and after

applying a little machine oil to

both bed ways attempt a trial ﬁ t.

Almost certainly it will be too tight,

and require several shims to obtain

a nice sliding ﬁ t. If so, start oﬀ with

a 10thou shim, placed between the

casting and the press plate, tighten

up and try again. It may still be

tight and a little time and patience

will be called for. If so, add a further

shim, say 3thou, and try again. In

simple terms a tight ﬁ t requires a

further shim and conversely if slack

remove one.

Once the correct combination of

shims is achieved the saddle should

slide eﬀ ortlessly. The saddle nut

(95) will also need to be correctly

adjusted. I found it necessary to

insert a 10thou shim between the

nut (95) and the saddle casting

(103). With the shim(s) in place fully

tighten the hexagonal-headed

screw (104). You should now be

able to slide the saddle the full

length of the bed without any

noticeable shake in either plane.

The leadscrew, nut and hand

SIEG model C0 ‘Baby’ lathe

Save £55.00 on this new small lathe, ideal for modellers. Review and photography by Mick Nicholson.

The lathe is very securely packed for transit and, apart from being a tight ﬁ t inside the foam plastic,

it is also well greased and comes complete with a bag of ‘Silica Gel’ rust protector. This view also

clearly shows the position of the ‘Saddle Nut Screw’ (104) and the tailstock locking screw (81).

Straight out of the makers’ box, untouched and in pristine condition.

brm074-075 Lathe review.indd 74 24/4/07 10:18:16

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PRODUCT REVIEW 1

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Pagina 1 - PRODUCT REVIEW

74BRM June 2007Visit the BRM website at: WWW.BRMODELLING.CO.UKPRODUCT REVIEWFor about 50 years numerous small lathes have been manufactured and m

Pagina 2

BRM June 200775Visit the BRM website at: WWW.BRMODELLING.CO.UKPRODUCT REVIEWwheel can now be reassembled, once lubricated it should be possib

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